How I Did A Refret And Re-paint On My Indio Boardwalk

I chose to try to re-fret my Indio Boardwalk because it was a relatively inexpensive guitar and some of the frets were raised up on the ends allowing the high E string to get caught underneath the fret. If this works out I will also try re-painting it.

Tools Used

Removing the Frets

I started by removing the frets by prying them slightly up from the end with a small flat blade screwdriver and then using a pair of end cut wire nippers to work across the fret pulling it out completely. This did cause some chipping of the fretboard so I recovered a few of the bigger chips and used the Xacto knife to place and glue them with some super glue. Finally, I removed the nut with a couple of light taps with a small chisel and hammer.

In hindsight, I should have moistened the fretboard so it would expand a little, heated the frets with a soldering iron so they would contract a little, and maybe even taped the fretboard before pulling them out (or so I have since read on the YouTube). I also should have tried grinding down the top of my end cut wire nippers to make them slip under the frets easier (also read on the YouTube).

Installing the Frets

I lightly sanded the entire fretboard with the 5” long sanding block just to smooth it a little. After measuring the slots depth with the StewMac fret slot depth gauge I used the Refret saw and Xacto blade to slightly deepen the slots at the ends near the binding.

I installed the stainless steel pre-cut frets after thoroughly cleaning the fret slots and making sure they were deep enough. I used a little glue on the ends and hammered the outer edges in first and then the center to help keep the frets in the slots between the binding. I devised a crude method to clamp the frets at each end while the glue dried.

Preparing to file the Frets

Now I have to file the ends, angle the ends, level the frets, crown the frets, and dress the ends. The fret beveling file is shown in this picture with the fretboard taped for protection. You'll notice 2 slots on the beveling file. One is straight and one is at a 32 degree angle.

Frets Have Been Filed

Pictured are the frets after filing and the Baroque fret crowning file from Amazon I used. The file is a diamond file and was extremely good at finishing the job! I obviously am an amateur at doing this kind of work - there are plenty of scuffs on the binding from filing, and a couple depressions in the fretboard from the way I pressed the frets in with clamps.

It took me quite a while to finish this process. At first, I started filing like a madman and probably did about 15 frets at once. My index fingertip was numb from pressing down the file and the file itself warming up to a gradual burn! It took a couple weeks to regain the feeling in my fingertip!

From that point I only did a couple frets at a time. I'm trying to think of some way to improve the condition of the binding before I start painting the guitar black. I may try just lightly sanding the binding with 2000 grit paper and, if that doesn't help, maybe try some white epoxy. I'll document whatever it is I decide to do.

I also still have to polish the frets to get them silky smooth but the stainless steel frets sure feel pretty smooth as is right now. I also have to install the Graph Tech Tusq XL nut and file the slots to adjust the string height.

Ready For Paint

Despite reading articles about sanding the guitar completely to the bare wood, I just lightly sanded the guitar to remove the gloss finish. If it doesn't work, then I'll try sanding it to bare wood.

I removed the nuts holding the pots and used wire ties so they could be easily reinstalled after paint. I did the same with the 3 way switch.

The bridge screws I just taped off with blue tape. I also taped the neck and sides of the guitar (I'm only planning on painting the top).

I removed the neck pickup but I just masked off the bridge pickup. I was going to remove the bridge pickup but I got lazy! I'll solder the neck pickup after paint.

I used some Gallery Glass Instant Lead Lines from Plaid (which my wife already had for some craft work) to mask the binding. I want to try to keep the binding because I think it will Look good with the black top.

Paint Job Completed

Here is the finished paint job. I put on 3 light coats of gloss black lacquer and 3 light coats of clear gloss lacquer.

I thought the guitar was originally painted with lacquer but I guess I was wrong. The paint shows lines like a turtle's shell. But I think it looks cool so I'm going to keep it!

If the paint job fails over time, then I will sand the black completely and repaint with enamel. For now I'll keep it as is and just call it a "custom" paint job!

The hard part is letting it sit for a week to allow the paint to completely dry. Then I'll add the nut, install the neck pickup, and string it up.

I've checked the frets with a straight edge and don't think there will be any high or low frets. We'll see next week!

Finishing Frets

I have finished polishing the frets with some 3M sanding pads (shown in the picture) in fine, super fine, ultra fine, and micro fine. I've already checked the frets are level with a straightedge.

I am also ready to install the Graph Tech TUSQ XL nut and install the strings (shown in the picture).

But first I have to solder the neck pickup and reinstall it. So far it looks good but, will it sound good?!

The next post will be the finished project!

Project Completed!

I soldered the neck pickup and installed the nut and strings. It sounds good and all pickup positions work as expected.

The stainless steel frets are much more comfortable than the original. I'm sure it has something to do with them being stainless steel but also because they don't have fret sprout like the originals did.

This was a fun project that I actually took my time with which is unusual for me as I'm typically not a patient man.

It is not a professional job by any stretch of the imagination. There are a few dings in the fretboard from the method I used to install the frets. And there are a few scratches on the neck binding from when I filed and crowned the frets. The paint job was a freak accident because I painted lacquer over urethane. But I like the way it looks! If the paint fails to hold up I'll just sand it down and paint it with urethane.

I figure it cost me about US $280.00 to do this project which is about US $65.00 more than what the guitar cost. But it was fun to do and I'm satisfied that I accomplished my goal of fixing the fret sprout and now have a black ES 339 style guitar with a "custom" paint job.